If you’re starting out in table tennis then it’s important to learn what parts make up your bat and how they can impact your game.

Table tennis bats consist of only a few basic components — regardless whether its premade or a custom set. We’ll bring you up to speed with the three main parts: the blade, rubbers, and glue.

1. Blade

The wooden portion of a table tennis bat is referred to as the “blade”. It’s made up of multiple layers of compressed wood, and sometimes includes layers of carbon fibre, glass fibre, texalium, titanium, aluminium, synthetic, arylate, aramid, and kevlar. According to the International Table Tennis Federation (ITTF) regulations, at least 85% of the blade must be made of natural wood.

Blades consist of a flat ‘paddle’ area for striking the ball, and a handle to hold the bat. The weight and materials impact the desired style of play — such as attacking/offensive, defensive, or all-around. Therefore changing the blade enables players to adapt their levels of power and control over the ball.

The handle extends from the blade, and can be flat, straight/rounded, and rounded/flared. Playing style and comfort determines the most suitable handle for an individual — its mostly a personal preference. Whatever feels most natural in your hand is what you should go for.

Types of Blades

Shakehand

These blades are designed for the shakehand grip — a style adopted by the majority of Western table tennis players.

For shakehand players, flared handles (where the bottom is wider than the top) are the most popular, followed by anatomic and straight. Conic handles are the same as flared except that the sides are straight rather than curved. The main advantage of a flared or conic handle is that the player can loosely grip the bat with less risk of letting go.

The code for flared is FL, straight is ST, anatomic is AN, and conic is CO. Some manufacturers offer different sized handles, versions for both left and right handed players, and those which can be used for both shakehand and penhold grips.

The Palio-ETT Expert, Master and Legend bats have flared handles for maximum comfort & grip.

Penhold

These blades are designed to suit the penhold grip — a popular playing style in Asia. There are two styles of penhold blades: Chinese and Japanese.

• Chinese Style (C) is more popular, and normally has a rounded head (similar to a shakehand blade but often a little smaller). The handle is smaller and shorter than a shakehand handle. It’s suitable for either one or two rubbers.
• Japanese Style (J) is less popular, and has a handle with a protrusion on one (or both sides), which the player wraps the index finger. The blade head is often more squarish than the Chinese-style penhold, but styles vary. Some blades are designed for applying just one rubber (J-1), whilst others are suitable for one or two rubbers (J-2)

The Palio-ETT Dynasty bat features a Chinese style penhold grip.

How To Choose The Right Blade

Speed

The speed ratings of the blades range from the fastest rating of offensive OFF+ to the slowest rating of defensive DEF-. An allround blade, is denoted by the rating ALL. The faster the speed rating, the farther the ball bounces off of the bat. Just bare in mind: the faster the blade, the more skill it requires!

Offensive-style players tend to prefer blades ranging from OFF+ to ALL+. Allround players prefer blades ranging from OFF- to ALL-. Defensive players prefer ALL to DEF- blades. Note that the rubbers applied to the blade enormously influence speed and control (see below).

Weight

The blade weight is determined by what feels best to you.

Most blades weigh between 70-100 grams before any rubber is applied. It’s generally felt that heavier blades provide more power. However, some players argue that a lighter blade is quicker. Note that power and speed aren’t merely a function of the blade; it ultimately depends on skill and technique.

Plies

Layers of wood known as “plies” make up the blade, and usually range from one to seven. Most blades have five plies. Every blade has a unique feel, and only you can discover what works best for your game.

Around 70% of players use an all-wood blade. Non-wood layers (plies) are designed to alter the speed and/or weight of the blade. Some players feel that mixed-ply blades offer a larger sweet spot, or more control — but again, that’s a matter of opinion.

2. Rubbers

The rubbers cover the “paddle” area of each side of the blade. It provides grip on the ball (of varying degrees), and is instrumental in developing your own playing style.

Rubbers must be approved by the IITF to be used in tournaments. The IITF maintains a database of authorised rubbers and they update it with successful applicants (e.g table tennis brands) that pass their stringent tests. The brand logo must appear on the rubber.

In the interest of consistency and fairness, one rubber must be red, the other black. Both rubbers usually perform the same — but some players opt to use different rubber types on the red/black sides in order to combine attacking and defensive playing styles in their game.

Types of Rubbers

Smooth

The majority of modern players use smooth or “inverted” rubbers. The surface of the rubber is flat and often shiny in appearance, with a layer of sponge underneath. The smooth, tacky surface provides the most amount of spin of all rubber types, and is used by over 85% of tournament players. Hitters, loopers, all-around, and defensive players all opt for smooth inverted rubbers — hence why the Palio ETT range includes them.

Short Pips

Short pips are also known as “pimpled” rubbers. They have a bumpy, tough surface, often including a layer of sponge underneath. “Hard rubber” is the name given to short pip rubbers without sponge, and they’re used primarily for old-fashioned “classic” or “hardbat” play. Generally speaking, short pips are used by players that don’t execute much spin in their game, and those that have difficulty playing against spin. Some close-to-the-table hitters, all-around players, and defensive players opt for short pips.

Long Pips

Long pips rubbers have extra-long “pimples” that are capable of reversing the spin of an opponent. The spin produced from the long pips is hard to read —  so it can give players an advantage over opponents that are unfamiliar in playing against this type of rubber. It is however difficult to play offensively with long pips, so its usually used on only one side of the bat.

Anti-Topspin

Anti-topspin rubbers have a smooth surface — but do not generate much spin. They’re also slow, meaning they’re not offensive either. Anti-topspin rubbers are however effective in neutralising the spin of opponents, making it a good blocker. Some players combine the anti rubber with a more offensive rubber on the flip side.

How To Choose The Right Rubbers For You

Speed and Spin Ratings

Whilst speed and spin ratings are somewhat subjective, they can be used as a guideline. Try to match these attributes to suit your playing style.

• Offensive players who frequently use topspin, drive, loop, and smash usually prefer rubbers with a high speed rating.
• Defensive players who primarily use underspin, chop, push, and block usually prefer slower rubber.
• Loopers and choppers prefer rubbers with a high spin rating.

Keep in mind that more speed or spin a rubber produces, the more difficult it will be to control the ball. Furthermore, rubbers which create a lot of spin are more affected by an opponents’ spin.

Sponge Thickness

• Thick sponges provide more speed and spin. It also adds weight to the paddle, and gives a more cushioned feeling when striking the ball. Offensive, loopera and allround players often choose thicker sponges.
• Thin sponges provide more control. The paddle is lighter and gives a “woodier” feeling when striking the ball. Defensive, choppers and developing players requiring more control often choose thinner sponges

Consult your table tennis coach to determine the right sponge for your playing style. Alternatively, try out some bats to get a sense of what feels and sounds ‘right’ to you.

3. Glue

Custom bats require specialist glue to attach the rubbers to the blade. The preferred glue for table tennis bats is a water-based application, free of harmful volatile compounds. This ensures that the rubbers stay firmly attached without causing any long-term damage to the blade. Don’t be tempted to use superglue!

It’s advisable that you purchase your own table tennis glue, as rubbers on any custom bat will need periodically changing. From time to time you’ll also need to reapply your existing rubbers when any area becomes detached from the blade. Just note that different types of glue may affect the speed of the ball — so we advise buying a renowned brand, and staying with it.

To learn more, check out: How To Replace Table Tennis Bat Rubbers — A Simple Guide